Acne Treatment

What is acne?

Acne is a skin condition that happens when your hair follicles (the tiny holes in your skin that hair grows out of) become blocked and inflamed. The medical name is acne vulgaris. It can cause a range of spots, and it most often shows up on your:

• face (in 99% of cases)
• back (in 60% of cases)
• chest (in 15% of cases)

Here's what the different spots look like:

• Blackheads and whiteheads: Blackheads are small black or yellowish bumps. Whiteheads are similar but firmer, and they don't empty when squeezed.
• Papules and pustules: Papules are small red bumps that can feel tender or sore, while pustules are filled with pus.
• Nodules and cysts: Large, painful lumps (sometimes pus-filled) under your skin.

Cysts are the most severe type of acne spot, as they carry the highest risk of permanent scarring if they burst. Picking or squeezing papules and pustules can also cause scarring, so try to leave your spots alone.

How is acne diagnosed?

Diagnosing acne is simple. A GP will look at your skin and the types of spots you have, then recommend a treatment based on how severe your acne is.

Acne is usually described as:

• Mild: Mostly blackheads and whiteheads, with a few papules and pustules.
• Moderate: More blackheads and whiteheads, with lots of papules and pustules.
• Severe: Lots of large, painful papules and pustules, plus nodules and/or cysts. You may also have some scarring.

Do I need to see a GP?

If your acne is mild, you can skip going to your GP and ask a pharmacist for advice. However, you should always see your GP if your acne is moderate or severe and affecting your quality of life, or if you're getting nodules or cysts.

What causes acne? 

Acne starts when your hair follicles get blocked, but the causes of these blockages can vary.

The main types of acne

• Non-inflammatory acne: Oil and dead skin cells build up and plug your pores, leading to blackheads and whiteheads without much redness or swelling.
• Hormonal acne: Hormones can increase your skin’s oil production (sebum). In men, this is caused by higher testosterone levels. In women, it's often linked to the menstrual cycle or a condition like polyendocrine metabolic ovarian syndrome (PMOS), previously known as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS).
• Cystic acne: Oil and dead skin cells clog your pores and react with bacteria, causing painful cysts.
• Fungal acne: A yeast called Malassezia lives naturally on your skin, but it can overgrow, for example, if you have a weakened immune system. This causes small, painful spots that can itch and may have a red ring around them.

Other things that can play a part

• Cosmetics: Some can trigger acne, but others are formulated to avoid it (this is called non-comedogenic). Oil-free skincare is still your best bet to keep acne at bay.
• Certain medications: Steroids (like hydrocortisone) and some epilepsy medicines can contribute to acne.
• Smoking: Research links smoking to acne, and the more cigarettes smoked, the more severe the acne tends to be.
• Diet: Studies have linked acne to high-glycaemic-index diets, dairy, whey protein, and meat products high in leucine. Diets with enough omega-3 fatty acids have been linked to fewer spots, but more research is needed to establish these links.
• Genetics: A family history of acne tends to indicate it’ll be more severe.
• Stress: It doesn't cause acne, but it can make existing acne worse.
• Pressure on your skin: Rubbing from phones, helmets, tight collars, and backpacks can contribute to breakouts.

Remember, acne isn't caused by dirty skin or poor hygiene. Washing your face more than twice a day won't help. In fact, it can irritate your skin and make acne worse.

How can acne be treated?

The main thing to know is that acne treatments take time to work. It can take several months to see a real difference, so stick with your treatment even if it feels slow.

Treatments fall into three groups: topical treatments (applied to your skin), oral tablets, and non-pharmaceutical treatments. We'll discuss each one in more detail below.

Topical treatments

• Benzoyl peroxide: A good starting point for mild acne. It's an antiseptic that reduces bacteria on your skin and calms inflammation. Ask a pharmacist about an over-the-counter cream or gel.
• Topical retinoids: These clear away dead skin cells so they can't build up in your hair follicles. Prescription retinoids, like adapalene (Differin gel and cream) and tretinoin, work in the same family as retinol but are stronger. Topical retinoids aren't suitable in pregnancy, so tell your pharmacist or GP if you're pregnant or planning to be.
• Topical antibiotics: These kill the bacteria on your skin that react with oil and dead skin cells. Only use them for the length of your course (usually 6-8 weeks), as longer use risks antibiotic resistance.
• Azelaic acid: This clears dead skin cells and kills bacteria on your skin. It's a handy alternative if retinoids or antibiotics cause too many side effects.
• Salicylic acid: An acid exfoliator that unblocks pores. It can cause irritation and make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so start slowly and wear sunscreen.

Acne spot treatments

Just got the odd breakout? An acne spot treatment targets individual spots, so you don't need to treat your whole face.

Our spot treatment range for pimples includes Acnecide face gel spot treatment and Acnecide face wash spot treatment, with both containing the active ingredient benzoyl peroxide.

Oral treatments

If your acne is more severe, or topical treatments haven't worked, your GP or doctor may suggest acne tablets, like:

• Oral antibiotics: Antibiotics for acne are usually taken alongside a topical treatment. Tetracyclines are the most common choice. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, you'll more likely be offered erythromycin, which is considered safer.
• Hormonal therapies: The combined oral contraceptive pill (containing oestrogen and progestogen) is often prescribed for women. It lowers the androgens (like testosterone) linked to acne.
• Co-cyprindiol: A hormonal treatment for more severe acne that hasn't responded to antibiotics. It reduces how much oil your skin makes.
• Isotretinoin (Roaccutane): For severe acne that hasn't improved with other treatments. It reduces oil, stops follicles clogging, cuts down skin bacteria, and eases redness and swelling.

Non-pharmaceutical treatments

• Photodynamic therapy: Laser and light therapy can help to improve the appearance of acne scarring. It delivers heat to the scarred collagen beneath your skin, encouraging your body to heal and grow new, healthy skin.
• Comedone extractor: A small, pen-shaped tool that removes the dead skin and oil clogging a pore.
• Chemical peels: A chemical solution is applied to your face so the top layer of skin peels away and is replaced by fresh skin.

Self-care techniques

A few simple habits can stop your acne from getting worse:

• Wash your face daily with warm water and a gentle cleanser.
• Wash no more than twice a day, as more can irritate your skin.
• Wash your skin after you sweat.
• Don't pop, pick, or squeeze spots. It can make them worse and cause permanent scarring.
• Choose water-based makeup and skincare over oil-based products, as they're less likely to block your pores.
• Avoid skincare with alcohol, astringents, toners, and exfoliants, which can irritate your skin.
• Remove your makeup completely before bed.
• Use a fragrance-free, water-based emollient.
• Wash your hair regularly and try to keep it off your face.

Over-the-counter vs prescription acne treatment

Some acne treatments you can pick up yourself, while others are available over-the-counter or by prescription. This table shows which is which.

How Chemist4U can help

Not sure where to start? We stock plenty of over-the-counter acne treatments, and our pharmacists can tell you whether a prescription option might suit you better. If your acne isn't improving, or you'd like advice tailored to you, complete a quick online consultation, and we'll help you find the right treatment.

 Start your acne consultation

Sources

• Acne Vulgaris: Prevalence. (2026). NICE Clinical Knowledge Summaries. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Acne Vulgaris: Definition. (2026). NICE Clinical Knowledge Summaries. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Acne. (2026). NHS Inform. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Acne Vulgaris. (2026). StatPearls, NCBI Bookshelf. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Acne. (2023). Cleveland Clinic. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Acne. (2026). NHS. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Acne: Symptoms and Causes. (2024). Mayo Clinic. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Azelaic Acid. (2022). DermNet. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Topical Retinoids. (2025). British Cosmetic Dermatology Group. [Accessed 20th October 2026].
• Diet and acne: A systematic review. (2022). PubMed. [Accessed 20th October 2026].